Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Who's Buddha and what's a wat?

Once we left the beaches of southern Thailand, the north proved to be a cultural circus of endless Buddha's and a million wats in Chaing Mai


So here's a little lesson on what's what and where it all came from and how it came to be meaningful.


 


The Big Man -


Buddhism was founded by an Indian prince named Siddharta Gautama around the year 500 BCE. According to tradition, the young prince lived an affluent and sheltered life until he took a journey; on which he saw an old man, a sick man, a poor man, and a corpse. Shocked and distressed at the suffering in the world, Gautama left his family to seek enlightenment through asceticism. But even the most extreme asceticism failed to bring enlightenment.


Finally, Gautama sat beneath a tree and vowed not to move until he had attained enlightenment. Days later, he arose as the Buddha - the "enlightened one." He spent the remaining 45 years of his life teaching the path to liberation from suffering (the dharma) and establishing a community of monks (the sangha).


Buddhism -


The Theravada form of Buddhism is dominant in southern Asia, especially in Sri Lanka, Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. For this reason it is sometimes known as "Southern Buddhism."


Theravada means "The Way of the Elders" in Pali (the language of Buddist script), reflecting the Theravadins' belief that they most closely follow the original beliefs and practices of the Buddha and the early monastic Elders.


The purpose of life for Theravadins is to become an arhat, a perfected saint who has acheived nirvana and will not be reborn again. As a result, Southern Buddhism tends to be more monastic, strict and world-renouncing than its Northern counterpart, and its approach is more philosophical than religious.


There are four stages to becoming an arhat:



  1. Sotapanna ("stream-enterer") - a convert, attained by overcoming false beliefs

  2. Sakadagamin ("once-returner") - one who will only be reborn once more, attained by diminishing lust, hatred and illusion

  3. Anagamin ("never-returner") - one who will be reborn in heaven, where he or she will become an arahant

  4. Arhat ("worthy one") - one who has attained perfect enlightenment and will never be reborn


In Theravada, it is thought to be highly unlikely, even impossible, that a layperson can achieve liberation.


So you can count me out.  But you can learn more about Buddhism here. (all the above information is taken from there anyways :-P)  


Images   



 


Wats -


A wat is a monastery temple in Cambodia, Thailand, or Laos.  Strictly speaking a wat is a Buddhist sacred precinct with monks' quarters, the temple proper, an edifice housing a large image of Buddha, and a structure for lessons. A Buddhist site without a minimum of three resident monks cannot correctly be described as a wat, although the term is frequently used more loosely, even for ruins of ancient temples.


Structure



A typical Buddhist wat consists of the following buildings:



  • chaidei or chedi (Thai เจดีย์) (from Sanskrit: chaitya, temple) - usually conical or bell-shaped buildings, often containing relics of Buddha

  • vihan or wihan (Thai วิหาร) (from Sanskrit: vihara) - a meeting and prayer room

  • mondop (Thai มณฑป) (from Sanskrit: Mandapa) - a usually open, square building with four arches and a pyramidal roof, used to worship religious texts or objects

  • sala (Thai ศาลา) (from Sanskrit: Shala - School, from an earlier meaning of shelter) - a pavilion for relaxation or miscellaneous activities

  • bot โบสถ์ or ubosoth อุโบสถ์ (from Pali uposatha) - the holiest prayer room, also called the "ordination hall" as it is where new monks take their vows. Architecturally it is similar to the vihara; the main differences are the eight cornerstones placed around the bot to ward off evil. The bot is usually more decorated than the viharn.

  • bibiloteca (Thai หอไตร) - Tripitaka library where Buddhist scriptures are kept

  • drum tower (Thai หอกลอง)

  • bell tower (Thai หอระฆัง)

  • multipurpose hall (Thai: ศาลาการเปรียญ, study hall) is a building in a wat. In the past this hall was only for monks to study in, as parian is a Pali word meaning 'educated monk' or 'monk student'.


The living quarters of the monks, including the monk cells, which are separated from the sacred buildings.


The roofs of Thai temples are often adorned with chofahs.


Images  


Monday, February 13, 2012

Tigress

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Spur of the moment or long standing desire.


I still can't be certain which it is. 


I had always wanted a tattoo.  The devil on my shoulder told me many times throughout college to "Just get it!".  But the devil is quickly made to shut up when the voice on your other shoulder is your mother firmly saying, "Get a tattoo and no more money".  With a college education mid-way complete it was wisest to listen to my mother.


But now I have that degree.  And although I will never not need/want/ask for my parent's money (I'm tied to that purse with crazy glue!) I've reached a point that either (1) I've worn them down to the idea or (2) I'm free to make my own decisions.  I'm going with option (3) a mix of both ^^


 


In Phi Phi all I had seen was bodies - tanned, fit and covered in ink!  It was a bit of brainwashing.  Tattoos everywhere!  On arms, legs, backs, feet, heads!  They were all over.  Except on me.


I had always thought I'd just get a simple quote.  A few words from Tolkien that I felt described me and how I am.  But then the whole world seemed to get that exact quote tattooed on them!! Thieves!!!  That is mine!!  Well not mine, Tolkien's, but still!!!  Not as unique when 5 copies of your idea are walking around on other people.  So I had given up on Tolkien and put the whole idea out of mind.  But then like I said - brainwashing.  I was going to get one.  I was going to do it!  


We passed several shops everyday on our way to the beach, on our way to anywhere really, they were all over.  And in one shop I had seen a Thai drawing of a tiger.  Yes.  That is perfect.  That is me.


Wednesday I stopped to ask how much.  Thursday I stopped to talk design.  Friday (1/20) I stopped to get tattooed.




I had my tattoo done with bamboo.  So the pain and healing time were amazing.  At first my stomach did a few flips at the poking, but after a couple of minutes it was barely noticeable.  What was uncomfortable was the pulling of my skin.  I don't think the sunburn helped, but better to have a bit of discomfort in order to have a tight, flat surface than a shit tattoo for the rest of your life.


 The whole process took about 3 hours.  4 more hours of no creams and I was good to go.  Perfectly healed and ready to show off!  


 


All that was left was to confess to my parents!  Eeeee...



Yo Bro!

Metro, bus, plane and taxi was all it took to get from one country to the next (Malaysia -->  Thailand).  


Tired from the first few days of our trip and the double marathon we walked in exploration, by the time we arrived at our hostel in Phuket  (1/16) all we could do was shower and fall asleep.  The next morning (1/17) was an early start - first ferry out to Koh Phi Phi Island and the beach!



I must say that Thailand is great about door-to-door service.  


Airport -> Hostel :: door-to-door


Hostel -> Ferry :: door-to-door


Ferry -> Tropical Gardens Bungalow :: ...


well not door-to-door per se, but that's only because there are no cars on Phi Phi.  But we were met by a young man with a cart who pushed our packs through town and even carried mine the rest of the walk to our bungalow's door, so in a long way of getting to it... Door-to-door.


 


The night before our ferry ride Jeff had a genius idea!  He was going to travel in his suit!!  Save time!!  Yes! brilliant!  Why waste time changing?!  Plan ahead!  We had a minute look around our bungalow then we were right back out the door, following the path downward and spreading out our towels to lay on the beach!! 


Oh it was heaven!  The water.  The sand.  It was all so stunning.  I love the beaches in America.  The Outer Banks is one of my favorite places, but... Wow!!  Thailand's beaches are a far more beautiful sight!


Water that's transparently clear and a dazzling shade of turquoise.  Even the temperature of the water is welcoming you in.  So warm it's almost not refreshing, but still better than the frigid temperatures of the Atlantic.


It was my first experience of Island Paradise!  A 180 degree view (the back half was lined with bars) of perfection!



And the bodies!  We have beaches in Korea, but they're full of Koreans - all covered up in long-sleeves, pants, huddled 20-deep under an umbrella.  Not in Thailand.  Skin was on show!  Tan and lovely!!  People were eager and grateful to have their skin kissed by the sun.  And I was no exception.


Make room for me!  I want a tan!!  This pale and pasty look has never been desirable!  It's got to go!!  


For 4 hours I laid, napped and enjoyed the beautifulness of Loh Dalum Bay.  It was only when I left the beach that I realized what a complete lobster I'd become.  I was crispy!


It probably wasn't the best choice to go for a Thai massage with such fried skin but... ah.  I scared the ladies a little.  All they could say was how red I was.  Of course this wasn't said in English - Jeff, very handily speaks Laos, and the ladies (despite working in Thailand) were speaking Laos, was able to understand them. 


Good first day at the beach I'd say!  Even with glowing red skin.


 


The following day (1/18) was much the same - a walk around the island before heading down to the beach to lay about relaxing.  



This time I tried to spend more of my time under the care of an umbrella and not completely exposing myself to more skin damage.  SPF 10 just does NOT work in the Asian sun.  I used to believe I tanned well - easily browned, burned rarely, if never.  But here in Asia I seem to boil.  My freckle count has increased.  My chest and shoulders are now dotted with little marks of battles lost to the sun.  I have learned.  I will use nothing less than SPF 50 from now on.  Cancer do not find me!!


When we left the beach we stopped to have a pedicure.  Done by fish!!  Weird.  It's weird having fish nibble at your toes, but neat too!




Feeling extra, extra crispy, we both went for Aloe Vera massages instead of the tradition Thai message.  It was a curious mix of chilled goo and pain induced squeaks.  But it was nice to have my body treated and cared for.  


There wasn't anything left to do in the day but eat!!  And what do you need after you eat?  Well a drink that comes in a bucket of course!!  And where should you go with such a large amount of alcohol?  To the beach!!  With our sand pail in hand we wander out into the sand and onto a fire show.  It wasn't the best show on the beach, but we were content to watch, drink and take it all in.  



Not even the rain could move us from our seats.


Jeff: I'm getting wet.


Me: Me too.


Jeff:  I'm getting slimy.


Me: Me too.


Jeff: Should we move?


Me: Na.


So we sat.  And we watched.  Until the rain really fell and then we moved under the cover of the Slinky's Bar.  With the fire show over, the evening turned into a dance party.  Unable to escape from getting wet, we moved out into the open and danced in the pouring rain for hours!!  


There was nothing overly exciting or amazing about the night.  Just music and dancing.  But it was fantastic!!!  I can't not think back on it and not smile or be so happy that I had that experience.  I'd be dancing and hopping around only to stop, look around and see Jeff off in another spot of the dance floor doing the same.  We'd share a smile and keep on jumping around.  It was truly spectacular.  A moment I'll always treasure - the night I danced in the rain in Thailand.


 


It might have be that we were tired or that not much could live up to the night before, but on Thursday (1/19) we went on a less-than-stellar boat tour of the islands.  Of course it was beautiful, picturesque and all of that, but just not the best.  The first time we stopped to snorkel I was stung by a sea urchin right off!  Sort of put a damper on my desires to jump back in.  But it was nice to be out on the water and even better to have a day avoiding the sun.



And that night, bigger plans got under way!

The last bits of KL

Another delayed start (1/16), but with few things to see on the day's agenda, it wasn't a problem.  Breakfast on the roof, bottled water bought and we were off to have a look inside the Masjid Jamek Mosque.


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In Europe I've been to endless churches and cathedrals.  There it's sort of: pew, pew, alter, crucifix, founded for/by Saint-what's-his-face because he did something good and great and la di da holy ground!


But this was the first mosque I've ever visited.  Are mosque like that?  Is one different than the next? or is it all for Allah? 


I definitely need a cheat sheet for religion!  Hindu.  Buddhist.  Muslim.  Throw Christianity in as well. Lord knows I'm not the best there either.  Just give me the highlights and breakdown.  Like a sports game. I could follow that!  And maybe even be a bit more clued-in when visiting various cultural, historical, religious places - because they're all tied up together!  It's just a big three-some.


Coexist1


I was able to pick up a few promotional Muslim pamphlets.  Maybe I'll have a closer read through those and have a better understanding...


After the mosque we trekked to the financial district of the city - The Golden Triangle - and wandered around below the skyscrapers; popping into a few stores (for shade, AC and possible purchases (although none accorded)) before making another small trek to the towers.  First tower to visit - the KL Tower.



2nd tallest in Asia and the 4th tallest in the world, the KL Tower provided a great panoramic view of the city and had an informational video complete with specific and insightful facts regarding its creations and significance!!  Definite bonus!  However, what was not a bonus was the depressing and very sad, sad, sad!!! mini zoo the Tower had.


Your ticket to the observation deck included an additional attraction - F1 simulator, animal park, or option 3 (IDK) - not really a racing fan and definitely an animal lover I went for the animal park.


Oh dear!  Wrong choice!  So sad.  So upsetting.  Such depressing conditions!!  Had that been America I would have called the Humane Society, PETA, Obama!  Everyone!  It was so bad.  We only did a short walk through and we were off - to lunch.


Not far from the base of the KL Tower is Sisters Crispy Popiah.  Perhaps one of the only things I agree with from LP, is their recommendation for this restaurant.  Fantastic!


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Tummy's (very) happy we walked on to the final stop, the big stop, the Petronas Twin Towers


I had hoped since there were no tourist (really!  The amount of visible foreigners walking around, snapping pics, checking out the sights of KL was negligible.) and we were stopping by in the afternoon that we'd still be able to go up to the 42nd floor and have a look.  But no dice.  The viewing deck is closed on Mondays.  Ahhh rats!!


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We were able to do some souvenir shopping before heading back to the hostel to collect our bags and make our way to the airport.


All in all not a bad way to wrap up KL before crossing over into Thailand.


 

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Caves, Gardens, and Deer. Oh My!

I meant for us to start early (1/15), but as I've been this entire winter, I was really enjoying sleeping.  


Tired.  Exhausted.  Drained.  Wiped.  Whatever word you like, I was dead.    Even with the alarm set (which is ever so easy to turn off ^^) there was no getting me up.  Aiding my comatose state was the absolute black-out conditions of our room.  It might have been high noon and you'd never know it.  Perfect for a person, who of late loves sleep (me!), but not the best for a tourist with limited time in a country's capital city!


However, our lie-in was only till 9:30 (ish/10) - not the worst.  A quick trip up to the roof for a continental breakfast of toast and hot chocolate (d-lious), teeth brushed, daypack sorted, bug spray purchased and we were at the train station getting our tickets to be delivered directly to the Batu Cave's front steps.  



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** KL might be a capital city, but its pace and train time schedule are anything but rapid and convenient**  We must have waited a solid 20mins before the train arrived.  It wasn't much of a bother though.  Our platform was fairly empty - which meant we easily found a bench (under a fan) to sit on and we passed the time in conversation and observation.  Before long we were boarded and bound for the Caves.


I'm really starting to think my delusions of travel are getting the better of me.  Perhaps 'delusions' is the wrong word, maybe it is 'expectations'.  I have such expectations that when I travel I'll see amazing sights - which I am!  Let there be no mistake there, the world is fascinating and I'm so thankful to be out seeing it, but what my (repeated) dismay comes from is a lack of information.


I've gotten all the guidebooks (literally! there are 15 in my apartment in Busan), I've looked things up on the internet, asked friends for suggestions on the sights and activities to see/do; and yet, when I get there I find that I'm disappointed, not at what I'm seeing, but because I still don't get why I'm seeing it.  What's the significance of what I'm looking at?!


This was no different for the Batu Caves.



  • Yes, they are a top attraction in KL

  • Yes, they have 272 steps

  • Yes, people make pilgrimages there during a yearly festival to make sacrifices and offerings to their gods


But why!?!


Why do people flock there?  Why 272 steps?  Is that all it took to get to the top? or is there a Hindu significance to it?  Why make a pilgrimage there and not to their local temples?  Why? Why?  Why?!!


Where's Samantha Brown with the historical and cultural explanation?!  Because LP is NOT giving it.  Or maybe it's just not giving enough to satisfy my personal level of geekness and it's actually enough for the "normal" travelers.  But...that's me off on a rant!


So we arrived at the Batu Caves, climbed to the top - on steps not even big enough to fit the entire length of an average-sized foot and had a look around at the various alters and shrines in the first cave, known as the Cathedral Cave.  Then just up a few more steps and we were in the second cave, paying more attention to the monkeys running around collecting pieces of food than we were to the service(?) taking place at the central shrine. 





I might whine a bit about wanting more information, but throw a monkey in front of me and I'll forgot all about the cultural monument beside me!  Ahh... where's my Ritalin?! :-P


Once the monkeys left and we snapped some photos it was time to descend (which was easier on the muscles, but scarier on the nerves!) and eat!  ** Jeff and I had agreed early on that along with seeing the sights, relaxing and having a good trip - eating! was also a top priority on our agenda! **  Unable to wait till we returned to the main part of the city, we had lunch at an Indian restaurant outside the main gate of the Caves.


There were so many choices!!  What do you get!?!


Me: (to a random young Malaysian man sitting next to me) Excuse me.  Could you recommend something to eat?


YMM: Sure.  What do you like to eat Ma'am?


Me: (Ma'am? Really! ugh....!!!!) Everything!


YMM: Ok.  I suggest the vegetarian combo.  It comes with rice and vegetables and different sauces.


Me: Wonderful!


*He was even nice enough to place the order for us!


The meal came on a tray covered with a banana leaf and NO utensils!  When in Rome... Dig in!  



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I thought using chopsticks was a fine art.  No!  Eating with your hands - in a style that doesn't reduce you to a 2 year old child - is a skill!  I wouldn't say that I mastered it, but I gave it my best effort.  Despite the mess I created, the meal was really fantastic!!  I was even able to communicate that to the cook by folding over the banana leaf -- as my young Malaysian friend told me.





YMM: How did you like the meal Ma'am?


Me: (still with the Ma'am?!!  Did he not see me eat?  Didn't that bring my age down a bit?!  I can't even get a 'Miss'?!  Killing me!!!)  It was great!!  Thank you for recommending it.


YMM: You're welcome.  In my culture you can show you liked a meal by folding over the leaf.  This means you liked it very much.  If you didn't like it, you leave the leaf open.


Me:  Oh!  Wonderful.   


YMM: My pleasure Ma'am.  Have a great day!


Me: (&(@^)(#&)@*&@&$) Thanks! You too!


 


Fed, slightly rested, unintentionally insulted - we were back on the metro and headed to the Lake Gardens and Bird Park.


Remember how I said KL was a capital city without the pace of one?  Well this was evident again on our return trip.  Board -> ride one stop -> wait 20mins -> ride one stop -> wait 25mins -> ride one stop -> wait 15mins... This pace continued our entire ride to KL Central.  Good thing we weren't in any hurry.  Nowhere specific to be, besides strolling through a park! ^^


We spent the remainder of the day walking through the park grounds, stopping off to explore the world's largest free-flight walk-in aviary (KL Bird Park), the Orchid and Hibiscus Garden, a few lakes and finally some deer (KL Deer Park).  


Out of the park we walked to Merdeka Square and attempted to identify buildings our map pointed out as historical places, but were only able to clearly identify 1, at most 2.  




After that it was time to eat!  And we didn't just eat - we had a feast!!


Over in the heart of Chinatown, down a corner street in the Petaling Market, Jeff and I indulged in a 5 course meal of amazing food!!  We couldn't eat it all!  Even with the surplus of fantastic dishes, we each only paid ~$20!!  Amazing!!




Full and happy, we headed back to the hostel to rest up for our last day in KL.